November 29, Whaler's Bay

Whaler's Bay is on Deception Island. Deception island is a volcanic island with a large caldera that is flooded by the sea, forming a very sheltered harbor.

To reach Deception island, we went along the Gerlache Strait, where we saw orcas (killer whales). We were told that orcas seem to specialize. Some eat whales, others seals, others penguins, others fish, so some scientists are trying to classify them as separate species or subspecies.

When we got to Whaler's bay, the weather was foggy and snowy, and it was hard to see the cliff to the left of the entrance, called Neptune's Bellows, until we were close. It gives me even more respect for the sailing abilities who got around this area without GPS or any of the navigational aids that we now take for granted.

The inside of Whaler's Bay was filled with sea ice. We were told a ship had sailed into Whaler's Bay the day before, and had no problem, so the wind must have pushed the sea ice near the mouth of the harbor.

The ship we were on, the Sea Spirit, is not an icebreaker, but it is ice hardened, and the sea ice was not very thick. So our captain decided to enter the harbor in spite of the ice.

As the name suggests, Whaler's Bay has had a substantial whaling presence, and there remain many old buildings and pieces of equipment.

The opening in the side of the caldera wall is called Neptune's window.

Had it not been for the ice, we would have landed and hiked to Neptune's window. Given the circumstances, and the possibility of the wind shifting and pushing the sea ice onto the shore, our expedition leaders decided to cancel the landings.